May 2026
Written by Will Bolsover
'Kenya 15 years on'
I am not sure it is 15 years on…maybe?
"But it was certainly a long time ago, and it seems like things have changed. I have been looking forward to this trip for a while, I managed to tag it onto a trip to Namibia with the Schoemans, a flying safari up the Skeleton coast, Kenya a different angle though, a luxury one. My aim, to check out the luxury properties on my radar, explore the country in a bit more depth, see whether it still lives up to its reputation.
I flew north and up to the Plateau, Laikipia Plateau, and straight into what can only be called the utmost comfort. Suyian Lodge has only been open for a year or so and it is stunning to be honest, beautifully positioned on an escarpment looking out over the valley and rock outcrops below, with huge individual rooms, plunge pools and a circular bar to relax at. I am here for 2 nights, and it is welcome, after the rougher side of Namibia as we hopped from one bush camp to another. The main reason I am visiting is to check out the base and HQ for Space for Giants, from here we collaborate with SFG in darting and collaring elephants for conservation efforts within the reserve, in efforts to reduce human vs wildlife conflict amongst other things. Considering the concession is newly open, game is surprisingly good, with healthy resident leopard, elephant herds, lion and plenty of grazers. There is definitely scope for more, but some of the sightings I had here turned out to be some of the best I have on the trip which surprises me in hindsight.
I won’t do every lodge that I stop at as not only would that bore me to death but I am sure you as well. So this really is just my fag packet notes, my thoughts and ideas, what I noticed and maybe even what I didn’t.
As I look back though, a few highlights and all for different reasons or different focuses, so maybe I will run through those quickly…in no particular order…"
SEGERA
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You arrive and the Plantation House is just stunning to be honest with you. I had bounced along the roads from one concession to another whilst clients would arrive by private charter. Either way, as you arrive at Segera you are met by this beautifully designed Plantation House which looks out over the plains in front.
As I looked out there were just multiple pockets of mini herds of elephants dotting the plains, grazing on acacia and rumbling in content. It was that typical African scene that you yearn for and one that is now imprinted on my mind. It really was beautifully stunning in so many ways. The lodge itself is comfortable, very comfortable, spas, pools, a variety of family rooms or honeymoon suites, truly a magical place in the middle of the plateau. Whilst not many leopard here, we had some great elephant, a small pride of lions nursing 3-month-old cubs and other game to boot. A special place.
SIRAI HOUSE
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Oooh, Sirai House. Sumptuous and maybe too exuberant for some, but I have to confess I love it. Sat on the escarpment at around 2,000m (I think?), it really does have everything you need. Taken exclusively for a family or a group of friends, you have a great pool, home cinema, billiards room, pickle ball court, spa, Pilates deck and more. A private road takes you down into one of the prettiest conservancies on the plateau, Borana. Elephant, giraffe, lion and more. It is a conservancy filled with gullies and water and ridgelines which makes it dramatic and captivating.
This would be one of my ‘go to’ properties for a truly extraordinary escape with heli access up the north, Lake Turkana, a private plane to the coast for deep sea fishing or Sirai Beach House. One to enjoy.
WILD HILL
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Ok, you have to put the effort in to reach the private property of Wild Hill up a bumpy steep track for 20 minutes, but it is worth it. This property is designed to blend in with its surroundings, and it does exactly that. Part of the Collection in the Wild, this place is stunning. Jumps into my top 3 lodge locations in Africa including Zarafa Camp in Botswana and Virunga Lodge in Rwanda. Mind-blowing views out over the African plains below whilst the lodge itself is located at roughly 2,500m.
Most people taking this place exclusively may well opt to take a heli in and out and even to access the plains below, and their game drive vehicles the road is hard work, but not the end of the world and actually makes you truly appreciate the location and the views waiting for you.
What is there to do here? Mainly gawp at the views and when you have finally had enough, enjoy the beautiful spa, play pickleball, boules, or enjoy the pool as you look out over the African savannah below. One of my favourites.
HOUSE IN THE WILD
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Belonging to the same family of properties as Wild Hill, I have a soft spot for this place. I am not really sure why, but it just feels right. It is doing good things in a conservancy that is still getting on its feet and works hand in hand with the local community for the benefit of all involved. Wild Hub where they focus their community efforts is at the forefront of really a re-wilding effort from how they stable their horses to how they interact with the local communities and manage the conservancy.
The House in the Wild itself consists of cosy rooms located on the banks of the Mara River with hippos snorting and grunting below, an open grass area in the middle of the lodge which is great for kids to burn off a bit of steam, and two cosy lounge and dining areas. Really loved this place, fun and doing the right thing.
KIMYA, & SERIAN (Original and Ngare)
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Just cool. I stayed at Kimya Kimya and visited Serian original and Ngare the two sister camps, only a 10minute drive away.
Kimya Kimya is just cool, located on the banks of the Mara this place exudes African charm. 3 tents taken on an exclusive basis afford you a real-life safari experience at the same time as having a slice of exclusivity. Old school safari design meets modern-day chic, a day bed hanging off the side of your tent, open bush showers, a deck with hippo below, it just invites Africa into your room 24/7.
So that’s just a few of my highlights from a week or so checking out some of the most comfortable properties in Kenya.
Kenya itself does still deliver, but it has definitely changed in the years since I have been back. As I flew down from the plateau to the Mara Conservancies I looked out of our small 12-seater plane and saw not vast open plains as I remembered from previous years, but networks of patchwork fields similar to what you would expect looking down onto the English countryside.
This has been a significant change over the last 10 years or so as value in land has come to the forefront and with that clearly marked territories of what land belongs to who. With this however comes issues as wildlife migration corridors are closed off as the game cannot cross previously open lands, forests have been chopped down for community land or the charcoal trade, meaning once fertile forests no longer hold rainwater back for days up in the highlands, and instead release it down onto the plains as flash floods causing havoc for weeks on end.
Kenya is maybe a victim of its own success both locally and internationally. Locally Kenya’s communities understand the value in wildlife and also land ownership, but this has brought with it its own issues. Internationally, it has become the place to go for the migration which has led to overcrowding and poor behaviour by tourists and some guides alike.
There is definitely still a way to get off the beaten path and avoid these patterns of conflict – and that’s why you have to travel with the right company and the right guides - but it is just a shame that it has come to this. It is difficult to draw the line between constructive travel and invasive travel; it is often too late.
Successful travel soon becomes a negative as people flock to the success story pushing it over the edge and ruining its own success. Kenya is not there yet as it still has plenty of open spaces and success stories, but as with every corner of the world these days, if we are not careful it will soon be too late.
One other project which I had not visited for quite some time was the Mara Elephant Project. Last
time I was here was maybe 15 or so years ago with a friend in Richard Roberts – sadly no longer with us – when we were doing an article on ‘conflict’ in the Mara in the form of cattle grazing and wildlife conservation head to head.
The project back then was small, privately run and personal, and whilst it has most definitely grown in its remit since then, it really still does retain that sensibility and that is why I still like it and we try and support it as and when we can.
At the forefront of wildlife conservation and human-wildlife conflict, the Mara Elephant Project is on the frontline doing what it does best with its minimal funds. These projects are the ones to support, small intimate, where the money goes directly into the project in question. Clients can get involved with a behind-the-scenes visit of the Operations Room, a presentation on their work across the region, a heli trip to see the region and their work by air, or maybe even be involved in a darting and collaring project. There is a place for every conservation project, but with something like MEP, small and personable, you know the money is going to the right cause and not wasted on let’s say ‘extra-curricular’ costs.